Another material you can use is natural zinc, which is gray in color and will work with your steel roof. Also it will never rust.
Leave the morter back one inch in each row of brick that is 4 - 6 inches above the deck. form the G-90 steel as Todd recommend or the zinc into a reglet/step flashing. Then seal the morter joint with a good quality silicone.
Let me know if you would like detailed drawings.
Dick Bus
2011-09-01 09:38:16.000000
Thanks guys. I would love drawings of both situations if that is possible. I was looking at ways of getting under the old roof, but I think its safer to stay on top and just go further out. Would fastening with screws/washers be ok? What type of sealant would you recommend?
Guest User
2011-09-01 10:32:49.000000
I would suggest flashing with a prepainted G90 galvanized material by making a masonry cut into the new brick and using continuous flashings parallel to the roof deck.
Somehow it would be good to get under the old roof but if not you can go on top of it by several inches and seal well with a quality sealant.
The other option to the masonry cut is step flashing.
Todd Miller
2011-09-01 05:37:26.000000
I have a tin shingled roof that need new flashing around the chimney, in addition to being somewhat rusty. I'm planning to re-coat it this fall, but I am working on the chimney now and need some direction with what type of flashing to use and how it should be applied. The chimney is centered on the ridge, and I have removed the brick down to the roofline as it needed to be rebuilt as well. I can post some pictures shortly. Thanks!
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