Scott,
Thanks for the question.
One solution that works on occasion is to re-route the chimney to exit through an adjacent exterior wall. Not only does this eliminate the potential damage to the chimney, but also eliminates the possiblity of a leak at a damaged chimney penetration.
Obviously this should only be pursued if it can be done safely and per the building code.
Regards,
David Stermer
David Stermer
2011-11-01 09:12:11.000000
I apologize in advance for the imposition.
My roof is the definition of low-rent. Galvanized 3 x 16' sheets on 2x4 purlins. No sheathing. Glacial action in the spring results in damage to things like the struts on my metal chimney. Otherwise, snow/ice sliding off the roof wouldn't be a big deal.
It's almost impossible in my rural neighborhood to find any assistance, much less expert assistance. You figure out how to do it yourself, or it doesn't get done. So I went to the little local lumber yard and ordered "ice rake" flashing which comes in 10' lengths with a cross-section like an inverted "V" with flanges. Naively I assumed the 'net would be full of "how-to's" or the manufacturer would have an installation guide or FAQ, but I haven't been able to find a thing (except dozens of sites selling snow guards). The very scant advice I got at the lumber yard didn't fill me with confidence.
Can anyone point me to an installation guide for this sort of ice stop? Failing that, if anyone is kind enough to help me out, I'll cough up more details.
Best regards,
-=s
Scott Willing
2011-10-31 22:46:24.000000
Hi David.
Thanks for the worthwhile suggestion. I took this very approach with a battery vent stack that was getting scraped off annually. However in my case, changing the chimney is not practical. (Just as well, since I'm from the straight vertical chimney school of wood stovery. )
Best regards,
-=s
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