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I'm looking for some help. I've got a couple different buildings, each with a pitched metal roof that's screwed down, and they have severe water leak problems. I'm looking for repair and replacement options, as I'm not sure which is the best option. I understand that without seeing it, it may be difficult to assess, but I'm hoping for some info anyway. ANY help would be greatly appreciated.
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I just got a little more info on the roofs that I'm talking about. Apparently any time anyone stands on it, all of the screws loosen and the whole thing leaks. Just a little more info--thanks.
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Jill,
I am sorry but it is, like you said, difficult to assess what's going on with these roofs.
There is every possbility that replacing the screws with larger screws and neoprene gaskets might take care of the problems. However, there certainly could be other installation problems. There is also a chance that the product installed on these roofs is entirely inappropriate for the job at hand.
If you let me know where you are located, perhaps we can find a qualified metal roofing contractor who could look at this for you. Also, if you email me photos, I can perhaps add more to this.
All Best.
[email protected]
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The building is located in Des Moines, but I'm afraid I have no pictures. And, since no one can stand on the roof at this point, I'm not sure I'll be able to get any. Does that help?
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One interesting thing ... is this roof very low pitch by any chance? Normally, it would not be necessary to be on a roof to take pictures. I am wondering whether the product was installed on too shallow of a pitch from the start.
My company does not have a dealer in Des Moines. Have you used the Find a Contractor section of this website to try to find a contractor in Des Moines?
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theres a question about perin: ib ahve freind hes intersted in machine that presses or ever makes the purin god i hope this sounds ok.. he wanst the name of the thing.
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Try going to the metal roofing magazine web sites like metalmag.com, moderntrade.com and krause publications to get a list of the industry. They all publish it once a year.
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Hello
I have found your site to be very informative and I am hoping you can help me with some general direction. I have just had a metal roof applied to an old Cape Cod cottage which I am beginining to renovate. I have pictures which I can send but do not see any way to send an attachement through this message - please let me know how to send them. The roof is very steep. There was no rake edge applied to the roof anywhere - I have been told by contractors applying to repair this job that these are essential to prevent water leakage under the edge (esp in climates like ours where the rain is often horizontal!!), the first strip of metal applied was applied so crooked that it sticks out past the edge about 2 inches at the gutter end and iabout half inch at the peak (you can see the screw holes at the gutter end). The shingles were stripped and OSH was applied instead of plywood (which I have read here is not recommeneded and more susceptible to screw tightness than plywood - is this true?), the flashing around the chimney is not "dented" to match the vertical panels leaving a big gap underneath, and the old sagging roof was not straightened out as it was supposed to have been but rather the panels were cut to perpetuate the sag in the middle of the roof (which I now understand should have been dealt with underlying material). Can the panels that were used be removed and reused, or are they likely to be damaged by removal (as they will have to be removed to deal with the sag). Do you recommend plywood for stability and longevity over OSH - and is there a difference in the weight? The panels were sawed rather than snipped - do you think this will give me rusting problems later on? I did not get a recommended contractor in this area and so have suffered the consequences, and now need some help getting the best advice and a qualified conractor to do the job. The closest city to me is Bridgewater, Nova Scotia.
Thanks
Joanne
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Joanne,
Also, generally OSB and plywood have similar pull-out resistance. I hope that an underlayment was installed over the OSB though.
Saw-cut edges probably will rust though some metal-cutting blades don't burn the edges quite so badly and don't create so many shards (which tend to embed into the paint and rust later).
10/3/2003
10/3/2003
Isaiah Industries, Inc.
10/4/2003
10/6/2003
Isaiah Industries, Inc.
10/6/2003
6/21/2004
Dura-Loc Roofing Systems, Inc.
6/22/2004
7/19/2004
Isaiah Industries, Inc.
7/19/2004
7/19/2004