Whew. Don't know the manufacturer. Called the builder, and he said the very high winds we have will loosen any screws eventually and that he will just come put new ones in. What about condensation? The repair person said without the 1X4 strips, the water has no place to go.
Guest User
2013-06-04 08:32:32.000000
It is the main gable part of the roof that the repair person wants to lift--not the deck part. Does that make a difference?
Guest User
2013-06-04 08:37:13.000000
Thank you, thank you! I really didn't know whom I could ask who had expertise. Then I found this site.
Just out of curiosity, I read some posts where people were doing the strips. Why do some metal roofs need them and others don't?
Guest User
2013-06-04 08:53:08.000000
We don't have an attic. The ceiling is vaulted, tongue and groove wood with sprayed insulation and then the OSB. I feel such relief. Thank you again.
Guest User
2013-06-04 09:15:49.000000
What a service you are providing! I am so very grateful!
Guest User
2013-06-04 09:29:33.000000
Thanks for the advice on seeking an experienced roofer. My problem is that all the local roofers I've contacted who indicate experience in metal roofing are those who install (primarily) and only distantly second repairing metal roofs are those who work on pre-fabricated metal building roofs, generally standing-seam roofing. A distant second indicates experience in installing Berridge/Barridge heavy-gauge baked-finish metal roofing systems which are shipped from California...complete with matching/provided flashings. Any helpful advice on choosing among these? (By the way, each of the apparent flashing failures or failures-in-process are around 2 chimneys and 1 septic vent pipe. Only last summer I had the roof primed and aluminum-paint coated (done every 5-8 years to prevent rust). The professional painters indicated they found no bad places. However the guys who installed new, wider rain gutters appear to have affected some of the drip-caps at the eaves...is this something I should be concerned about?
Guest User
2013-08-04 15:25:13.000000
Thank you! I will commence contacting those I mentioned.
Guest User
2013-08-05 19:39:43.000000
Generally speaking, no, I do not agree that is necessary. Have you tried contacting the manufacturer of the roofing for their opinion.
Todd Miller
2013-06-04 05:50:37.000000
Thanks Jeannie. In most cases the condensation on the back side of metal roofing is minimal. If there is underlayment in place, then that protects the condensation from causing problems. You should have underlayment on top of your OSB. That is required by building code.
With the 1 x 4's running horizontally, actually, the flow of any condensation down the roof is impeded by the 1 x 4's.
Todd Miller
2013-06-04 08:42:05.000000
There are very few roofs which actually need them and those are typically roofs that have a "stepped" appearance such as a tile facsimile.
There are some folks who feel the strips are beneficial. My 30+ years of experience has never shown that.
Do you have any attic ventilation?
The strips can sometimes be helpful in situations lacking ventilation where moisture and heat control cannot be accomplished through normal attic ventilation.
As far as fasteners, yes, with the type of roof you have, switching to larger fasteners after a few years is not unheard of.
Todd Miller
2013-06-04 09:03:08.000000
In your situation, because of the spray insulation, you do not need to take any additional steps such as the strips in my opinion and experience.
Todd Miller
2013-06-04 09:21:21.000000
Hi Barbara.
I really would suggest someone with metal roofing experience. Sealants only last so long ... there may be some flashings that need replaced. Where are you located?
Todd Miller
2013-08-02 14:22:45.000000
Background: Rectangular house with steep gable roof-- with shed roof over wrap-around deck. Inside ceiling is tongue and groove wood sprayed with foam insulation. There is OSB on the insulation and the metal roof screwed into the OSB.
There was a small leak above the deck We had a roofer come to fix the leak. He used caulk for that but said that we have screws coming out of the metal. He said we could put fatter screws in, but that won't be fixing it correctly. To fix it correctly, he will take up the metal, lay felt, and put 1X4 strips down and screw the metal back on. This will cost nearly $5000. It is quite a shock because we thought the roof had been put on correctly 6 years ago. Do you agree with the recommendation?
Jean White
2013-06-03 21:57:54.000000
I have a 75-year-old roof of heavy-gauge steel shingles. Never any leaks during that time. However in the past few years, there are signs of minor leaks in 3 places, only one of which is barely visible in the attic. From the locations, they appear to be early-stage flashing failure to this old lady. My question: Can I call any old roofer to do a repair (such as with J.B. Weld) or will it be necessary to contact an historic metal roof specialist to have repairs done that won't endanger the excellent quality of this Roosevelt-era "project neighborhood" roof?
Barbara Petty
2013-08-02 14:09:02.000000
Todd is a credit to the industry to be certain!!!
Scary thing is that he is an even better person in real life.
Eric Novotny
2013-06-05 07:37:25.000000
What a pretty roof and home.
Having just come off a roof yesterday where a handyman did some flashing repairs, I would strongly recommend you dealing with a roofer at minimum and preferably a roofer that has a good background in metal.
Eric Novotny
2013-08-04 09:37:10.000000
If the failures are at both chimney flashing and a pipe flashing, a good roofer (regardless of experience with that profile) should be able to see to the scope of the repairs.
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