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We have what is called a Jim Walter home. It is a frame home with the masonite siding on it. the house is roughly 56 ft long and 26 ft wide plus the hangover. Roughly 20 sq of shingles or 22.3 sq metal I have looked at lot of the questions and it raised several for me We have two layers of shingles on roof. It is 1/2 inch plywood supported by 2 x 6 rafters and double braced at each rafter We have half dozen different answers. We are not concerned with insurance company,city codes or selling problems Can we lay 1 x 4 treated lathe the length of the house and then add the metal to that with no problem ? Mfg says if we go directly onto shingles it will void their warranty .They did say we could do the lathe 1. should the lathe be 2 ft apart or further 2. will it ventilate correctly 3. should we insulate between the roof and the deck ? 4. Would the 1x 4 create a decent air space and be the insulation 5. would it be better and look better to tear the shingles off and and then put metal with a barrier on the roof 6. We have 3 bids at rougly 6500 that includes tearing shingles off and not tearing shingles off, we also have bids at 9600 up to 11 grand to tear and not tear shingles off . All of them are giving the same 30 year warranty and 5 or 10 warr on labor 7. Can I have someone climb on the roof after it is finished and put clear silicone over every screw for added protection What questions do we ask to be sure we get a good job and the best bang for the dollar. The wife retired Monday and I have just been awarded agent orange disability so we have to get this correct the first time around. I am no longer able to climb up and look and spot what will or will not work Any suggestions pitfalls and help would be greatly appreciated If the bids wee all in the same range I would just make a call but with the wide margin I am wondering why

Hello Todd, sorry for the delay I have been out of town The reason for the no warranty is if you do not put an underlayment the metal can be scratched by the shingle thus removing the protection with an underlayment they dont void it. I called back to get it clarified Right now the roof has two turbine vents on the back side there are vents on each gable end and then there are several under the eves along the roof line The lathes will run length wise of the house would you suggest they run up and down the roof instead ? You say running lengthwise that it will not provide active ventilation suggetions As to the roof vent we are considering using a ridge vent but we are concerned that it only comes in aplastic of some sort cant find a metal one again open to suggestions or is the plastic type good We are going with a lighter color like a tan not sure how well you can see this pic

will getthe underlayment and will install it along with the insulation We do appreciate the help and advice will send a pic when it is finished We have found a gem of a home repair man He is knowledgeable is way more than reasonable and does good work We are fortunate to run across the young man What has been answered on here is what he is saying so feel really good we have him doing the work for us Thanks for all the replies

Thanks Doc. I don't quite understand the fastener situation because if they can fasten through the lathing into the decking, then they can fasten into the decking without the lathing. You can get screws like they use easily up to 3" in length. The lathing will act as a thermal break which will help keep from transferring as much heat from the roof into the attic. That is a good thing. Because the lathing runs horizontal, though, it will not provide active ventilation. Ventilating the ridge as exhaust and making sure you have good airflow into your attic from the soffits is wise. Really, I don';t feel you can go wrong any way you go. Leaving the old shingles on actually increases R Value of the roof assembly which is beneficial. Based upon all you're telling me, perhaps leave the shingles on, install underlayment, and the lathing ... and then a metal roof which meets Energy Star guidelines ... seems like that would be your best bet. It really comes down to what you want to pay for though. Every step, of course, involves cost.

Vertical followed by horizontal battens will be okay. Most insulations are not also an underlayment. I would suggest both.

Doc, Can you attach a picture of the roof? I would like to know how the roof is vented, if at all, currently. What kind of color were you thinking of for the roof? In general, I would prefer to see the old layers removed and in the dump. This will keep the thermal mass off roof and the structure below much cooler. You can run an overdeck vent if your current roof is an insulated or hot roof design but if you have vented design and are going to put a light color on, there won't be nearly as much benefit.

+1 Post pictures if you can. We love updates.