Attic venting?

I'd prefer to see intake vents, obviously. My concern is the metal may drop the roof deck temperature enough to cause condensation in the roof decking that never occurred before. If you install a ridge vent without intake vents, it will pull air from someplace. It could pull air in one side and out the other, bringing in rain and snow. It also could start to pull air in through the walls of the house which could lead to condensation in the living space.

Picture of the inside attic space would be good. What kind of steel roof are you doing? To be honest, if you are doing a standing seam roof, the easiest thing to do would be to ventilate the via gable end vents.

Right now, the attic is most likely acting as a conditioned space if it is sealed up. If you haven't had any issues to this point, nothing about doing a metal roof will change that and I assure that the roof was not "breathing" through the asphalt shingles.

From the standpoint of making the entire assembly work and perform better, a bit of rigid foam to the exterior (on top of the roof deck) would only make the home feel better and thermally uncouple the roof framing from the exterior. In doing such, you would be moving the framing inside the warm wall and breaking that thermal bridge.

If the home isn't "sweating" now, I wouldn't add a bunch of ventilation for the sake of ventilating. The reality is that as the attic is working now, that space is probably functioning as conditioned.

I'm getting ready to install a new metal roof on my house. 125 year old two story farm house, in a pretty dry climate of eastern CO. Relatively low humidity year around.

Currently the roof is not vented at all, and never has been as far as I can see. No gable vents, no ridge vent, no soffit vents. I know the standard would be to have soffit vents for intake, and ridge vents for exhaust.

The 2nd story on my house the interior ceilings follow the roof line part of the way, so in each room upstairs the ceilings have two partial cathedrals on each side, before the ceiling flattens out. My attic is insulated with blown in insulation.

The cathedrals are insulated all the way down to the soffit and fascia. I know this because while I was stripping the existing asphalt shingles off, and drip edge, one of the fascia boards came off, and the blown in insulation started falling out.

Question - can I just vent the ridge, and that be sufficient enough to let the attic breath?

Otherwise the only way I see to install soffit vents, and have them work, is to remove the blown in insulation in the cathedral parts, install those styrofoam rafter vents, and try and stuff a bat of R-13 in there. My rafters are only 2 x 4's.

I'm using Titanium UDL 30 Synthetic Underlayment, and pro panel metal sales tin. I stripped the entire roof down the the substrate, and fastened the UDL 30 on the roof already.

Just trying to figure out how to vent the roof before I begin installation.

Thanks

I contracted with a MRA member for the install of my new roof. I thought I had done my research and found the right company. My home was built in the late 1800's. It has two levels and a basement. The attic has 3 gable vents and some form of openings all along the edges. The frame of the home is original cedar.
I bought the home a year ago. It has had years of water issues. My inspector indicated they were not a current issue or concern. This was far from the truth. I soon discovered toxic black mold a month after moving in. The area of the mold has a chimney, vent pipe, and water lines encased in it. I made every contractor aware of the water and mold issues. Mold remediation was being done at the same time.
The roof was installed at the beginning of August. I have had to address multiple issues. The new roof has tile up top and standing seam over the two flat areas. The crew left the standing seam scratched, dented, and warped. They cracked, and punctured holes in the asbestos siding. The flashing looks like a blind man cut and pasted it on. Rust spots are visible.
I have sent multiple photos via text and email to multiple staff that were my main contacts throughout this process. In addition, the new roof leaks just as the old one did if not worse. Water is coming in around the same chimney and along the area where the flat roof on the back connects to the rest of the house. They cracked, loosened, and removed a portion of of two attic beams while creating the ridge vents. The width of the ridge vents are inconsistent and appear too wide. Water is coming in from various spots.
I made the company aware of the water problem over a month ago. During one of their attempts to fix the scratches, dents, and warped metal, they sloppily applied the wrong paint. My gutters are not complete either. I have paid for everything except for the final bill of around $1800.
The owner offered to repaint the standing seam with kynar. He told me that he wasn't removing the entire roof just because I didn't like certain things. There is a difference between quality install and what I got. Furthermore, he told me that he and 2 of his longterm friends/employee's would come to my home and go through everything and fix the problems.
It has been raining consistently since the roof was installed. They did not want to come out until the paint came in. The company has primarily focused on the paint being the solution, and that the other items are trivial.
The paint arrived last week. I was contacted and told their "tech" would be out to complete the needed repairs. I did not agree to this due to the agreement between the owner and I changing.
I paid for a new roof and gutters. What I got was a new leaking roof and a lot of "we don't really care" damage to my beautiful historic home. I agreed to the final repairs due to the owner stating "HE" would be leading and doing them. Where do I go from here? Please help....